Nepal is not just a country, but some secret place on the map, as if hidden from the rest of the world. When you get here, you begin to feel like a guest in another reality. Time flows differently, the air seems thicker, and every street in Kathmandu seems to hold the stories of thousands of people who have passed here before you.
At first glance, the capital city can seem chaotic and noisy: rickshaws, motorcycles, people, the smell of incense, dust and street food - everything mixes into one crazy stream. But if you linger and listen, you can catch this rhythm and merge with it, and then suddenly realize: this city is already pulsating inside you.
Boudhanath Stupa – The Heart of Buddhism
One of the main points of attraction in Kathmandu is the Boudhanath Stupa. A huge white structure with a gilded spire and the eyes of the Buddha looking in all directions of the world. These eyes are impossible to forget: they seem to look directly into the soul, asking: "Why are you here?"
If you go up to the upper terrace of the neighboring monastery and linger for a while, you can see how the sun sets below the horizon, painting the stupa in warm shades. At this moment, it seems that the world has suddenly frozen. All that remains is the light ringing of bells, the unhurried movement of pilgrims in a circle and the feeling that you have become part of something bigger.
Pashupatinath – Encounter with Life and Death
Kathmandu is not only a city of Buddhism, but also of Hinduism. The most sacred place for Hindus is the Pashupatinath temple complex. It is here, on the banks of the Bagmati River, that cremations take place.
When you get here for the first time, you can experience a real shock. Fire, smoke, people in orange clothes are singing something, and funeral pyres are burning on the shore. Someone says goodbye to a loved one, someone just sits by the water, thoughtfully looking into the distance. Death here is not a tragedy, but part of a natural cycle.
Tourists are watching from the observation deck, someone is taking pictures (although it is worth thinking – how appropriate is it?). The thought involuntarily spins in your head: "This is how it ends." A couple of hours ago, a man lived, breathed, drank tea, maybe even smiled, and now his remains turn into ashes that will be taken away by the river. And you stand there looking at it, and suddenly you begin to feel life more strongly.
Swayambhunath is a temple that hovers over the city
This temple complex rises on a hill and is often referred to as the "monkey temple." It is not so easy to get here - 365 steps up the mountain. But from above there is a view of the whole of Kathmandu, and in clear weather you can even see the Himalayas.
It is always crowded here: monks, tourists, pilgrims, a funny grandfather who feeds pigeons, and, of course, monkeys. There are hundreds of them here, and they behave like real masters. Someone can unceremoniously snatch a bag of food or even glasses from you - and then try to catch up!
Durbar Square – A Journey Back in Time
In Durbar Square, you get the feeling that you are in another time. Ancient temples, narrow streets, wooden balconies decorated with elaborate carvings. It seems that the king is about to come out of some palace and the coronation will begin.
It is especially curious to look into the house of Kumari, a living goddess. A little girl, who was chosen as an incarnation of the goddess Taleju, lives here until she grows up. She rarely appears in public, but if you are lucky, you can see her on the balcony - serious, motionless, with eyes in which you can read something ancient.
Asan Bazaar is the real face of the city
If you want to see Kathmandu without tourist gloss, you should go to the Asan Bazaar. This is the heart of the city, where they sell everything you can imagine: spices, fabrics, fruits, jewelry, tea, bronze figurines, fake branded items. Everything is boiling here, people are shouting, haggling, motorcycles are maneuvering between the counters, and in the midst of this chaos, you can't decide whether to buy a scarf or watch the merchants a little longer.
Thamel is the area that never sleeps
This area is a real tourist Mecca. Here you can find a cheap hostel or an expensive hotel, a cozy café with cappuccino or a noisy bar with music until the morning. Here everyone will find what they need: climbers - equipment, hippies - incense, seekers of spiritual practices - books on meditation.
But the most interesting thing is not the shops and cafes, but the people. You can meet anyone here: a Japanese monk who has been living in Nepal for 20 years, an American traveler who lost his passport and now plays the guitar in exchange for food, or a Nepalese who will sell you "real antiques" produced a couple of weeks ago.
Falling in love with Nepal
Nepal is not only temples, stupas and mountains. This is a state of mind. Here you can get lost and find yourself anew. You can come into a stupor from the chaos of Kathmandu and then suddenly realize that this chaos is perfect. You can meditate in the silence of the monastery or sit in a diner with a cup of masala tea, listening to the bustling life outside the window.
When leaving, take with you something invisible, but very important, because Nepal, if it has sunk into your heart at least once, stays there forever.